Hi, Mom.
Last we spoke, Dan and I had spent some time in Delhi and there was a lot on our minds. From there, we boarded a train and have been making our way through the states of Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan and Maharashtra. As the map shows, we covered more than 1,600 miles and still saw only three of the 28 states of India.
For reference, India is 1,269,219 square miles in size—nearly 15 times the size of the State of Minnesota. And the train was a great way to see as much as we could in the time we had. Though it is tough to know just how to convey all of what we have seen and experienced, I am going to try by providing some highlights.
As I look back on our time in total, the top five takeaways in my mind are as follows:
- The people of India are incredible.
- The sensory experience—sights, sounds, smells and tastes—of India are unparalleled.
- As someone who loves textiles, India is hard to beat for textiles of all kinds. Cottons, block prints, linens, cashmere, silk, hand made carpets, and so much more, all in endless varieties.
- The income disparity is something I simply can not fail to see. And the reverence for the wealthy, conveyed by so many we encountered, is perplexing; something that is no doubt deeply rooted in cultural differences. Yet, even knowing why, it is difficult (for this American) to comprehend.
- The food is a major part of the Indian experience. If spending time here, one needs to go all in and eat the food! Yes, you will most likely eat or drink something that doesn’t agree with your system but it is worth it.
So, about our journey. Brief notes on our favorite stops follow:
The Taj Mahal
The main building of the Taj Mahal, built in the 1600s, is entirely constructed of white marble. A monument to love, the building is actually a mausoleum built to hold the tomb of the emperor’s favorite wife. She died in 1631, at the age of 39, after giving birth to their 14th child.
Beyond the tomb itself, the Taj Mahal is actually a 42 acre site that includes other buildings and beautiful formal gardens. It is a feat of architectural achievement and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
We were there at sunset, which cast a beautiful pink patina on the marble.
To see more about the Taj Mahal: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/252/
Ranthambore National Park
Ranthambore is an area of abut 155 square miles, that was established in 1955 as the private hunting ground of the Maharaja of the time. Throughout the park there are beautifully eerie remnants of the original structures, created to host and house dignitaries on wild game expositions (royal hunts). Those structures now abandoned, crumbling and sinking into the overgrowth that surrounds them, create a uniquely appealing backdrop for the animals that live there. And, they also provide habitat.
What makes Ranthambore unique is the population of bengal tigers that live there. Bengals are so rare in the wild that the species is designated as endangered. And they only live in this area of the world. So seeing one in the wild is rare and special.
Did we see one? Yes, we actually did. And the funny thing about it is that Dan and I didn’t tell anyone. We were going through zone 4 of the reserve and our guide was looking to the right, gesturing and explaining the habitat, when I looked off to the left just in time to see a bengal tiger charging down the hillside. Speechless, I quickly tapped Dan on the leg and pointed. He looked in time to see the tiger, but no one else in our vehicle saw it. They were all looking the other way. And just a quickly as I recognized the tiger, it was gone in the brush.
We were the only ones on our excursion that saw a tiger that day—many were quite disappointed —so we decided to keep it to ourselves. But wow, what a sight!
Dinner in the desert
Near Bikaner, Rajastan, we were treated to an extraordinary evening in the desert. Just outside of a small nearby village we boarded camel drawn carts that brought our group in a parade of color into the desert, where a small oasis was waiting for us. We were treated to cocktails and dinner under the vast, open sky. And there was a nice sequence of local folk musicians and dancers to entertain us. It was quite the magical evening.
As you can imagine, there was so much more. Palaces, museums, markets, boat excursions, extraordinary dinners at the homes of formal royals, and finally an Indian farewell dinner where we all dressed in traditional Indian garments. It would be impossible to capture it all but I hope this gives you a taste of what we have been experiencing.
Until Mumbai,
XOXO
Notes to Mom 