Hi, Mom.
Coming to you today from one of the most astonishing places on earth, Chobe National Park in Botswana. Seriously, this is one of the most incredible places I have ever been.
In my last post, I made reference to the fact that Africa gripped me immediately. It was a connection I didn’t expect. And as we drove through Chobe on our game drives I took an opportunity to further reflect on the familiarity I felt so deeply.
My time in Chobe began this way, on our first afternoon game drive. Trying to understand the feelings provoked by this magnificent place, I scanned my surroundings. The first details of note were the tall prairie grasses and long views that reminded me of childhood, when I would spend hours playing in the open grassy areas by the creek behind our house.
Then came recognition of vegetation and smells. Buffalo grass, wild sage, thistle, and milkweed.
The paths we navigated resembled field roads, a dirt track for each tire with tall grasses growing in between, scraping the bottom of the vehicle as we passed. It all seemed so deeply familiar. Nearly primal. Especially when the sun was low in the sky, nearing sunset, and the sounds of small creatures—crickets and insects—serenaded us. Their rhythmic calls dancing on the cooling air.
How could a place this far from home be so familiar? I don’t know the answer to that but I can tell you with certainty that it was.
Words won’t adequately convey what we experienced in the days we explored Chobe. So this update will be more of a photo journal, which I hope you enjoy.
Lions
Early in our first afternoon game drive we rounded a tree line corner and came up on a pride of lions sleeping. There were three females on the parameter, a large male deep in the grasses under the tree and the rest were cubs lying between them. As you can see in the images that follow, they were not at all concerned by our presence.
We watched them sleep for a while, and then they began to stir. Stretching and yawning, the three females were up first. They surveyed their surroundings, checked on their cubs and went to the male to try to wake him. Apparently not interested in getting up just yet, he let out a roar that clearly signaled they were to leave him alone.
Then, as we watched, the females and cubs began to walk away from the area, and we followed them.
To our amazement, we watched as the females stalked, chased, took down and killed a giraffe.
When we made it to the site of the kill we saw the lioness who made the initial kill walk away, her mouth and face fully blood stained, to allow the lion the first opportunity to feast on the morning kill. Soon the cubs joined in, followed by the female lions.
It was startling to have such a front row seat to such a powerful act of nature. But somehow, it wasn’t as disturbing as you might imagine. It just seemed natural. And we, more than anything, were awestruck.
Wildebeest
More Lions
Jackals
Hyenas
Cape Buffalo
Cape buffalo, elephants, lions, leopards and rhinos make up “the big five.” Most safari goers set out with a goal to see the big five, and until recently all could be seen at Chobe National Park. Unfortunately, a consequence of covid, the rhinos had to be relocated.
As was the case in many urban areas, where absence of the work-a-day crowd and the normal rhythms of life left a void that more problematic factions filled, covid changed some things here too. At Chobe, the absence of safari goers during covid was capitalized on by poachers (who kill rhinos solely for their horn). To preserve the remaining population, the rhinos were relocated and no longer inhabit Chobe National Park. So no rhinos, but we did see four of the big five, including cape buffalo.
Monkey
We saw many different monkeys throughout India and Africa. Those at Ranthambore (India) were extremely large. Others we saw in Africa were really small. This one was fairly photogenic.
Wild Dogs
A rare sighting, we saw a pack of wild dogs. The African wild dog is one of the most endangered species on earth. We were quite fortunate to see them.
Zebra
One of many zebras we saw. This one, part of a dazzle of about 15, crossed the path in front of us.
Elephants
Imagine our delight as we watched an elephant walk through the brush to this watering hole. Then, a second. And a baby. Followed by others. In rather short order, we were graced with a show of 21 elephants frolicking in this watering hole. It was beyond delightful!
Once out of the water, they sprayed themselves and one another with sand. Our guide explained that elephants regularly go through this series of activity; get fully wet, then cover in mud or sand, and finally scrape against trees and brush to remove the dried sand/mud. The process is key to clearing their skin of parasites, bugs/insects and any other undesirable things that have attached to them.
And after all was done, this massive creature walked right up to the front of our safari vehicle and interacted with us for a while. It was a bit intimidating but even more so, spectacular.
Leopards
And finally, to cap our last game drive in Chobe, we spotted two leopards in the same tree. It is rare to see leopards at all, and even more rare to see two in the same tree.
As our time at Chobe came to an end, we had two final sightings. Just before we left the lodge these giraffes came to the watering hole in front of our tent for a drink. I had been longing to see the unique posture they take to drink and these three arrived to indulge me just in time.
Then off we were, headed to the landing strip for our flight to the next lodge.
Little did I know how important it would be to arrive early. Not because we were headed to a busy airport, but to clear the landing strip of wildlife so our bush plane could land. And that is just what we did. Our final game drive in Chobe: clearing a herd of zebra from the landing strip.
I hope the images convey what an incredible experience this was. These few days were something I will never forget.
Until next time,
XOXO
Notes to Mom 